India is a land of extreme wealth and abject poverty. On a global scale, the richest and the poorest coexist and the contrast is stunning. We wanted to experience all aspects of the country and as middle-class American tourists, we have felt very rich at times and out of our league in others. We flew from Mumbai to Cochin in Kerala where we had made a reservation at a super deluxe Taj resort that had been recommended for its superior class and service. While the price was cheap by Western hotel standards, it blew up our budget quickly. When we booked, they offered a Monsoon special — buy two get one night free — and threw in some free meals as well, so we were able to milk our splurge a bit more. The service was incredible and the food was fantastic. It was an oasis from the chaos, which was nice and relaxing, but it lacked the Indianness that I am looking for. Still, if you are looking for something, you will never see it…
This class of service is part of the culture today, and has probably existed for the noble elite for millennia. The tourism industry is booming here and it caters to everyone. Backpacker dorms to royal palaces provide every level of price and comfort. Personally, I have never felt comfortable anywhere service is overly attentive and pampering so I feel slightly alienated and isolated in this type of environment, but a quick trip to the village market cures that up quickly! Loud and colorful with all varieties of wares and foods available, it is an intersection of all people, many of whom probably wait on me in the hotel, going through their daily routines. The fruits and vegetables all appear very fresh and the meats appear as recognizable parts of animals. The spices are unique and give this food its distinctive aroma and huge variety of flavors. I can say that in ten days I have not had a bad meal here. In fact, most plates, from street stalls to upscale restaurants, have been phenomenally good and moan-inducing. I enjoy Indian food at home, but it has an authenticity here that can not be exported. In an environmental and cultural context, it fits perfectly; largely meat-free for religious and economic reasons with a seemingly infinite palate of fruits, vegetables and spices flourishing in this fertile cradle. I have long considered Italian food the zenith of tastiness but this trip is seriously challenging that notion!